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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.